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Choose the RIGHT MTB Stem Length PDF Print E-mail

The details contained within this article refer to some very general rules and statements. However, these guidelines should nevertheless give an inexperienced cyclist, or one whom is debating between stem lengths, a chance to explore the benefits of each length.

General Guidelines to Stem Length

  • Longer (mostly 120mm but can also include 110mm depending on the frame) benefits climbing because it allows the rider to remain forward, over the handlebars more for better steering control on ascents where gravity is pulling the rider’s weight backward, thereby removing traction and steering capabilities from the rider.
  • Medium (mostly 110mm) contributes to an all around feel that tends to favor XC riders who plan a little more for the climb and the flat riding involved with the majority of a ride, but also holds back a little so as not to over commit to a forward position on the descent.
  • Shorter (90mm –100mm) benefits descending by allowing the rider to keep a majority of the rider’s weight farther back while gravity works to push you forward over the handlebars and makes the steering a little less tight, which is a nice benefit at higher speeds.

*Chances are if you’re riding with or considering a 130mm stem, you’re on the wrong frame for you so think about switching.

XC Racing (110mm –120mm)

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Generally speaking, the racer desires to spread out over as long of a top tube length as reasonably comfortable to achieve a more advantageous leg power position. Again, this also aids the racer on steeper climbs where keeping your body weight forward, with a greater degree of body weight closer to or up over the handlebars. Fight the “wheelie effect” a little less to maintain greater control which allows you to focus more on technique and form.

Moderate XC (110mm)

The moderate approach serves this riding style really well.

Aggressive XC (110mm, 105mm or 100mm)

Again, the moderate approach works well here, but perhaps stay with the short end of the moderate scale.

All Mountain (90mm - 100mm)

This style of riding implies a severe favoritism towards long, hard, fast downhill sections. Whether by shuttling or climbing the top is the pinnacle for these riders but quite often involves a climb. Either way, a decent amount of pedaling is generally required and therefore requires the heavier rig to go the distance, despite the sluggish nature of the bike (this is what makes these rides “epic” in nature). Versatility is prime, not so prime that the stinkin’ climbs are going to get in the way of having a short stem for a lot of downhill fun.

Extreme All Mountain (75mm - 90mm)

Just falling short of moderate freeride bikes, these beefed up bikes are concerning themselves less and less with pedaling and becoming more adventurous as light and nimble freeride bikes with slacker head tube angles, 150mm of suspension at either end and the attitude to go with it.

Moderate Freeride (60mm – 75mm)

No climbing worth mentioning, so go short, tight and laid back on the handlebars. The only body parts in front of the head tube should be your hands over the brakes.

 

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